Tuesday, 5 January 2010

Vietnam December 2009

Had a late night flight to Hanoi, it left Melbourne at 1am, which is way past my usual bedtime so struggled to stay awake! Fell asleep pretty quickly on the plane, then suddenly woke up wondering why we hadn't even taken off, then I realised we had been in the air for the last half an hour, doh! Then we had four hours to kill at Singapore airport, a two hour flight and finally we arrived in Hanoi!

Hanoi

The hotel sent a car to pick us up from the airport - as this doesn't happen very often, if at all, I get really excited at the fact that someone is waiting at the airport with my name on a bit of paper! Sad I know but it's the little things I like! All the cars seemed pretty fancy, no clapped out old things that you would fear for your life if you had to get in them which was a bit of a surprise! The driving was still a bit crazy and took some getting used to - as usual there was a lot of beeping at each other for no particular reason, other than they could, and it was like the survival of the fittest - people overtook, changed lanes, turned off etc and took their life in their hands every time some sort of manoeuvre occurred! But there weren't any crashes or anything, everyone seemed to know their place in the food chain and who they had to give way to!

There were loads of bikes and scooters on the road, and people were massively overloaded with big barrels of water, flowers, boxes, it was pretty unbelievable that they managed to balance with this much weight on the bike, let alone ride it anywhere! There was also the usual men weeing at the side of the street which is always lovely to see, and the best thing that I saw was a man vacuuming the road!!! I couldn't believe it, why would you do that?!!!

The houses over here are a bit odd - they're really narrow and are generally a couple of stories high and they go back quite far. The front of the houses are really ornate and nicely painted, they look really nice and modern, but then the sides are just grey concrete so it looks a bit strange! They look pretty cool though as the fronts are painted in all different colours and are really bright. They're not all like this though, especially as you get closer to the city there are a lot more buildings that are a bit ramshackle and crumbling but people still manage to live in them and I guess somewhere to live is better than nowhere to live...

Everyone at the hotel is lovely - they make you so welcome and are so smiley and friendly! They wouldn't even let us carry our own bags, someone brought them in from the car and then someone else took them up to our room! Nothing was too much trouble for them and I feel like I'm being treated like royalty!! Such a step up from a hostel where you get given a key and then have to fend for yourself!! Breakfast is included at all the hotels too, and as long as you like eggs then you're all set! This place had fried rice and noodles for breakfast but it was a bit early for me to start on the fried food so I just opted for eggs with something that was supposed to be bacon (I think) but wasn't quite! Near enough though!

We spent our first day in Hanoi just wandering around, realising that there's not really that much to do here! It's fun just walking round the old quarter, taking your life in your hands every time you try to cross the road! The trick is to just walk pretty slowly and all the hundreds of thousands of motorbikes just go around you! (apparently there are 9 million people in Hanoi and about 4.5 million motorbikes - that's a lot of motorbikes to dodge as it does feel like they're all out on the road at the same time!!) It took a bit of getting used to but it didn't take long before we were crossing the road like a local! Another tourist even commented on the fact that I didn't have any fear when I crossed the road, obviously I was looking a lot more confident that I felt!!

We walked round the big lake, we visited the cathedral (not very interesting as you couldn't go in and it had a nativity scene under construction!), we found the Flag Tower (but could only admire it from outside the big wall that was build around it!) and then ended up watching some soldier people play volleyball! We then somehow found ourselves by Ho Chi Minh's mausoleum and I've no idea how this happened as I thought it was miles away but clearly my sense of direction was up the spout! Anyway, it was shut but we got some photos outside it, and whilst Mel was taking a photo of me I spotted a Vietnamese girl hanging around and I thought this could mean only one thing - she wants a photo with a blonde haired westerner, and I was right! She was pretty excited about the whole thing too which was quite funny! She held me quite tight for someone that I didn't even know (actually I don't really like to be hugged like that by people I do know!) and then a couple of other people wanted to get in the photo too so we had a mini photo shoot, much to the amusement of the guards hanging around! I'm not quite sure how this whole situation happened as I had already noticed lots of westerners everywhere and no one really stared at us like they did in China so I figured they would be used to having us here, but obviously for a couple of people it was a bit of a novelty! Not that I'm complaining, as long as my photo doesn't end up on any dodgy websites...!!

We're having a bit of trouble finding food at the moment! I'm sure there are lots of restaurants around, they just don't seem to be in the immediate area that we are in when we are starving!! The first night we ended up with Thai, which seemed a little ironic but it was excellent! On our first day out we eventually found a fish restaurant, even though Mel is a vegetarian and I don't really eat much fish! It was full of locals though and I like places like that! Although it was so full that we got put outside and they closed the door on us so we were a bit ostracised from the rest of the place! Especially as someone inside had to move every time they wanted to open the door onto the balcony so they could bring us things! But on the positive side we could overlook the street and people watch which was great! The food was really good, although when Mel ordered a vegetable dish she got bok choi and mushrooms - a staple meal that we got everywhere in China, regardless of what we ordered! We just hoped this wasn't a taster of things to come!

In the evening we consulted our bible, the Lonely Planet, and found some streets that had a few different restaurants on. Unfortunately Mel and I can't walk anywhere without getting completely lost and in the totally wrong place! So what should've been about a 10 minute walk through the old quarter turned into about an hour of walking round until we found somewhere to go! Fortunately wherever you do go the food is always great so in the end I guess it doesn't really matter!!

On our next day we went back to the Mausoleum which was open so we could see the big man himself, Ho Chi Minh (Uncle Ho to his friends). After queuing up to see Chairman Mao in Beijing we consider ourselves to be well versed in the art of pushing and shoving and queue jumping (which goes against all my principles being British as generally I love to queue!), so we were quite surprised at how civilised it all was! We handed all our bags over, lined up to go through a scanner, got my water confiscated (not quite sure what they thought I was going to do with it!) and then got marched over to the Mausoleum. It wasn't even that busy so only took maybe 15-20 mins which was quite disappointing really, I thought it was going to be a whole morning activity of jostling and taking out people that were getting in my way! There are lots of guards around and they all have rather large guns with huge knives on the end. There is also a list of things you're not allowed to do - wear a hat, put your hands in your pockets, smile, talk or laugh - so I figured if you did any of these then the punishment was obviously a quick stabbing!

We walked through the building (I had this massive compulsion to put my hands in my pockets once I realised you weren't allowed to, so in a big effort to not do this and therefore not get stabbed, I started walking around with my arms straight down like a soldier!!!) and then in one room was the big man, chilling in a glass cabinet. I read that in Oct and Nov of each year he gets taken to Russia for some general maintenance so he was in top condition when we got to see him. It's hard to comprehend that it's an actual dead person, he really just looks like a wax work.

After this bit of excitement (on the way out I got told off for talking but fortunately I didn't get stabbed so clearly they were feeling quite jovial that day!) we got to walk round the grounds and you get to see where he lived and his stables and garage (with cars!) and a house on stilts. Unfortunately we seemed to be the only people who hadn't handed in our cameras somewhere so whilst everyone else picked theirs up and started snapping away, we could only walk around and be taunted! Obviously there was a little system in place that we knew nothing about! So we went out, picked up our bags, went to another entrance and went round again! This time we handed our cameras in at the right place, queued up to see the big man again and then picked up our cameras... Then we got stopped as we had to pay to visit the grounds... Well we managed to walk through free 10 mins before, not sure how that happened but seeing as it was about $1 AUD and there was actually no other way out we had to pay up! The ironic thing is that once I had my camera there weren't that many things I really wanted to take pictures of but nevermind! I'm a tourist, I'm on holiday - I NEED my camera everywhere I go just in case the perfect photo opportunity passes me by!!!

After all this excitement we walked up to the West Lake as there was supposed to be a massive pagoda thing there so we thought we'd take a look. The MASSIVE pagoda turned out to be a tiny one, and it was under construction so we couldn't even go in!! Oh well, on a more positive note, after getting slightly lost we managed to find one of the restaurants we were looking for the previous night and had a great lunch!!

In the afternoon we had organised a cooking class. As we were the only people there though we both had to do a vegetarian course as there were no other meat lovers for me to cook with! I don't think they were that used to cooking for vegetarians as we got to choose the dishes we wanted to cook which was quite cool! After that we went for a walk to the markets and our interpreter was pointing out all sorts of wierd and wonderful things! One of the highlights was a bowl of worms which looked very appetising! We didn't buy any food there though which I thought was the whole point, we just walked round, had a look and then went back to the restaurant!

Our chef/teacher was this guy who looked like he hadn't even started shaving yet he was so young! But he seemed to know what he was doing, most of the time! We started off with rice paper rolls - he chopped up a few veggies to show us how to do it and then he gave us a piece of something and we chopped it up! He didn't speak any English so we had to use the interpreter but it worked quite well. The spring rolls were pretty easy - get some rice paper, put some noodles, tofu and veggies in and roll it up! The dipping sauce was a bit more of a challenge as he wanted to use fish sauce but Mel didn't! He then got a bit mixed up with sugar and salt and put too much salt in!! But add some chilli, garlic and lime and it seemed to do the job! We ate those straight away and they were pretty good, although ours didn't roll quite as well as his so the presentation probably wasn't as good as it could've been!

The next course was curry and stir fry vegetables. Again he cut up a piece of onion then we cut up a piece of onion in the same way! Ditto peppers/carrots/tofu and anything else that went in! Then he stuck some curry paste and spices in and just left it to cook. All seemed pretty easy really, no secret ingredients (well none he was telling us about anyway!) or anything like that, just put in shit loads of little red chillies, garlic and coriander and you're on your way!

For dessert we wanted to make the traditional dish of crepes with apples and cinnamon!! Originally the guy wanted us to make some sort of sweet potato pudding but that didn't sound very nice so we went for the yummy option!

And after all the cooking (or really the occasional bit of chopping and watching the guy cook!) we went down to the restaurant and ate all the food!! It was great!! And the crepes came out with ice cream and a bit of chocolate sauce drizzled over the top, mmmmmm!!! Lovely job! I'm not sure we really learned too much about Vietnamese cooking, other than how to make rice paper rolls, but it was good fun and I figure I can just buy a book on Vietnamese cooking and it'll tell me all I need to know...!!!

Hanlong Bay

It was about a 3.5 hour bus ride to Hanlong City, the jumping off point for trips round Hanlong Bay. We were on an organised tour but in true Heidi and Mel style we looked round the bus and decided we didn't like the look of anyone so didn't bother talking to the others! There was a particularly annoying French woman who was huge and pretty disgusting to look at, and decided the trip was predominantly about her so she needed to know everything that was going to happen over the next few days as soon as we got on the bus... Personally I'm just quite happy to be taken around and told what to do as we go but I guess everyone is different. Whilst we were hanging around waiting to get on the boat though we did actually make an effort and talk to some of the others and they were all really nice, which was a good job really seeing as we were going to be spending the next 3 days with them!

After the China boat trip down the Yangtse River we were a bit dubious as to how this situation was going to play out but as soon as we saw the boat we were pleasantly surprised! It looked to be in a good condition and it was much smaller, I think there was only room for 16 people so it was all rather nice and a little bit fancy! As soon as we got on board we had lunch served - lots of seafood which I wouldn't normally eat, but I figure I'm in a different country, I'm on a boat and I've at least got to try some different things, so I ate prawns, mussels, fish and some deep fried pork, lovely! It wasn't anything I'd order in a restaurant or cook myself but it all tasted OK, a bit fishy but that's to be expected really!

We spent the afternoon cruising round the bay, the views are just amazing - lots of small islands that are like mini mountains coming out of the water! We went for a walk through a huge cave and saw lots of stalagmites and stalactites and the cave was lit up with different coloured lights so it all looked pretty cool! After we came out of that we went kayaking which was great fun! Mel managed to get soaked but I didn't so we're not quite sure how that happened! It was a great workout too, my arms were killing me after about 2 minutes and we were out for about an hour, just cruising round the islands and trying to stay out of the way of all the big boats!! Then we had a little rest before a gourmet dinner of more fish and seafood! It was pretty cold on the boat but fortunately our cabin had air con so we cranked it up to 30 degrees so it was like a sauna and soon enough we were nice and toasty!!

The next day we cruised around a bit more, then swapped boats and cruised for a while longer! We dropped some shopping off to some people that lived in the middle of the water and then went to someone else's place where they kept lots of fish, so I guess it was a kind of fish supermarket on the water and you can go and choose what you want to eat! We had lunch after that (more fish but not from there!) and the big French woman hoovered up most of our food - she even tucked into Mel's special vegetarian food without asking, and then took off some of the herbs with her fingers from my piece of fish before handing me over the plate with my bit of fish on! Lovely!

After lunch we stopped at Monkey Island where, yes you guessed it, there were some monkeys running around! We walked down the beach and decided to follow a little trail, and after walking for about 15-20 mins we came to the end of the path and there was a monkey sitting at the end just staring at us! And that was it! I don't think any of us really expected that, it was very bizarre! We watched it for a bit to see if it did anything. It didn't. It just sat there and watched us right back so we just walked back again!

We then cruised round to another island and got on some bikes for a little adventure! These bikes had no gears and the brakes weren't really up to doing the job that they're made for, which was unfortunate as the road was quite undulating and the bikes couldn't really handle it, which made for some interesting cycling! I was trying to go up a hill and it was so hard and I was going so slow that I almost toppled over! It was great though, we cycled round the island and into a small village which just felt like it was in the middle of nowhere and it was surrounded by rice paddies and the views were just incredible. We went for a walk up to a cave which the people hid in during the Vietnam War and all the bombings so that was quite interesting to see and hear all about. Then we got to see some snake wine and a few of the guys tried it but it looked so disgusting that none of the girls could bring themselves to do it! The jar had two snakes and a bird in and was filled up with rice wine. When one of the guys drank some he looked in the cup and could see scales in there!!! Yuk! It looked horrible, especially with the bird and the feathers in there!! I can't believe people actually drink this stuff!

After that lovely experience we cycled back to the boat and sailed to Cat Ba Island where we stayed in a very fancy hotel (for my standards!) for the night! We had a great dinner aswell, they just brought us lots of different meat and fish dishes to try and they were all pretty tasty!

The last day continued the theme of cruising around, only this time it just felt more like travelling as the boat took us back to Hanlong City for lunch and then we got the bus back to Hanoi. The people at the hotel greeted us like long lost friends which was quite funny, and we just had enough time to freshen up and then we made our way to the train station for our overnight train to Hue. The hotel offered to take us to the station so we didn't get lost so we let them. It was a bit of a joke really - it was a tiny station with two platforms and one train so it wasn't exactly rocket science to work out where we had to go! After successfully negotiating Chinese train stations when no one wanted to help us we were well equipped to deal with this so I actually felt slightly embarrassed that someone showed us to our beds on the train!!! Anyway, no big deal I guess, we got there with way too much time to spare and settled ourselves in for the night...

Hue

The train ride was pretty uneventful, managed to sleep a bit and then in the morning I just stood and looked out the window for ages, chatting to a French girl that was in our compartment (who thought I had an Aussie accent!!! Oh dear, I'd better come home soon if that's the case!). I just love the scenery here, it's so green and lush and I love all the little houses and buildings that are around too.

The hotel organised a car to come and pick us up and then even though it was only about 8am they still gave us a room straight away and my bed had rose petals scattered over it which I thought was a nice touch! They had the tiniest elevator I have ever seen, it just managed to fit three of us in, and then a guy had to run up the stairs with our bags! I felt a bit sorry for him, although our bags weren't really that heavy so it could've been a lot worse for him!!

We didn't have much time in this place so had a shower and then headed out to explore. We walked over the bridge to find the Citadel and the city walls, but went the wrong way to start with as usual! Then, as we were back on track we started getting followed by a cyclo driver who was offering us a tour of the city. We eventually decided to take him up on his offer and as if by magic another one appeared so we could have one each! It was really good fun - the guys cycled us round and showed us lots of different things, including where the Americans bombed them during the war, and took some great photos for us. Their English was pretty good, and my guy was teaching me a bit of Vietnamese too so we really enjoyed it. Then they dropped us off at the Citadel and we wandered round there for a while which was quite interesting.

We weren't quite sure what was going on as I thought they were only cycling us round for an hour but then they waited for us and took us to a couple more places, including lots of tanks and they got us to climb up on them and take photos! Then they took us to the intersection towards the main town so we guessed this meant the tour was over! And then surprise surprise they tried to completely rip us off and charge us an extortionate amount of money for their services! We weren't quite sure what to do, but in the end just gave them some money and walked off! It was a bit of a shame really and put a bit of a dampner on the whole morning but I guess they're just trying to earn a living like everyone else and they did show us lots of places that we otherwise wouldn't have seen so it was definately worth doing, it just annoys me when people seem really nice and friendly and then you realise they're only doing it for the money. But I guess it's the same everywhere around the world so no big deal! I guess we had been pretty sheltered up to now and no one had tried to rip us off but I'm sure other people experience it all the time!

After this we felt like we had enough of this place so booked two tickets on the first bus out the next morning! Then we just spent the rest of the afternoon wandering around and lazing around the place! We even managed to find a vegetarian restaurant that was in the LP and the food was a bit strange but really nice!

Hoi An

We got picked up at 8am in a mini bus and then taken round the corner to a side street and just left there! There were lots of other people there too, which did give us some hope that another bus was actually going to turn up but the whole situation was a little bit odd! There was an American girl waiting too who was really annoying and wouldn't shut up, but worse than that she had the hairiest legs I have ever seen on a woman!! It was unbelievable, surely there's no excuse for that, you can buy a razor in Vietnam!!! It was one of those things that you didn't want to look at but just couldn't help staring at them, especially as she kept pulling up her trousers so you could see lots of leg!!

Eventually the bus turned up and it was a sleeper bus with mini beds for everyone instead of chairs! It was quite a good set up really, was just a shame that the trip was only going to be a few hours so we couldn't make full use of them!

We were told we were going to get to Hoi An at 10.30, which I thought seemed a bit early, and it was as we didn't turn up for another two hours after that! And you get dropped off at a hotel (not taken to our hotel like we were told!) and the people from the hotel kept hassling you to stay at their place. Fortunately we had a reservation so that got them off our backs and one of them reluctantly pointed out on a map where we were so we could find our own place!

Hoi An is such a lovely little place. It's a small town and it's just full of tailors everywhere you look! We were getting excited just walking down the main street and seeing all these shops and all the clothes hanging up! When we finally found our hotel the woman there recommended a tailor and so after having some lunch we went to find this shop so we could start shopping!!

It was all very overwhelming and the women in there are very good at their job and upselling things! We had a general idea of what we wanted but they had a few Next catalogues in there so we flicked through those aswell and picked out a few things! I ended up with a suit for work, two shirts and a winter coat. Mel ordered a suit, some work shirts and some dresses. They were trying to get me to buy some skirts as well but it took me a while to explain to them that I don't wear skirts so they left me alone after that and tried to sell me something else instead!! We got to pick out the styles, fabrics, how long we wanted the shirts, the jackets, the trousers, where we wanted the buttons, what lining we wanted, what type of pockets for the trousers, there were so many decisions!! They measured us for all our outfits and then we arranged to go back the next day to try them all on. I was a bit dubious about how they were all going to turn out but was quite excited about it all too!

After that we went to the Opticians as I decided I wanted to get some glasses made up too. They had loads of frames to choose from so I spent ages trying on all these different ones to find some that actually suited my face! Eventually I found a couple of pairs I liked so ended up just getting both! They thinned the lenses and made them scratchproof as well and both pairs cost less than half the price of one pair at home so I was quite pleased with that, and they were going to be ready the next day too! How exciting!

The next day was Christmas Day, wohoo! We woke up early, opened the presents that we'd brought with us, Mel called her family and then... that was it! Christmas over by 7am!! We hired bikes so we could cycle to the beach but as usual we went the wrong way and so ended up cycling through all these little villages and rice fields which was great! Lots of people were shouting hello and waving to us as we went by and kids were coming out of school and high fiving us as we cycled by which was really funny!! Eventually we got on the right road to the beach and went for a long walk in the sun which was really nice!

We cycled back the right way (which took a fraction of the time and passed lots of people going in the other direction - how did they know which way to go??!!) and then went to find somewhere for our big Christmas lunch! We found a great spot by the river on the first floor of a restaurant so we could overlook the road and river and do a lot of people watching! Our lunch consisted of daiquiris, rice paper rolls, deep fried aubergine, tofu and pineapple (for Mel), chicken and cashew nuts (for me) and banana pancakes for dessert! Yum!

After our big feast we then had to go and try on all our new clothes! First I picked up my glasses and they tried to fob me off with a dodgy lense but I made them change it - I couldn't actually see out of it so it wasn't going to be much use to me! We tried all our clothes on and they fit perfectly! It was excellent as they looked great! We got really excited and ended up ordering more things... Opps! But it's so cheap and such good quality it'd be rude not to really!!

In the evening we went out for something to eat and weren't allowed a table by the river, so were stuck at the back of the restaurant and then they forgot my meal so ended up waiting 40 minutes for it and Mel had already finished eating, not overly happy but when I said something they didn't appear to care! They then charged us a 10% service charge which I thought was a great idea seeing as the service was so good! So that was all a bit annoying but other than that it was a great, and very different Christmas!!

The next day we did a day trip to My Son which is where there are lots of ruins... We were picked up at 8am but then proceeded to drive round and pick everyone else up so didn't leave the town for another hour! Our guide for the day was VERY enthusiastic about everything Vietnamese as well as Michael Jackson! He kept shouting all the time, repeating himself and pulling faces! He was quite amusing but it was a bit much after a while, especially as it was all very well rehearsed and he probably says exactly the same thing every day!

The place looked huge on the map but when we got there it was actually pretty small and even though there was supposed to be three or four different areas, there was only one main area that had anything of interest... It was pretty interesting to look at and it was set in a jungle type area so it did have an overgrown look about it! The guide was supposed to give us a little chat and then leave is to look around but I think he got carried away as he was yapping on for ages and wouldn't give it a rest! I walked off in the end after I just couldn't take it anymore! It seemed that the French were blamed for most things and then he kept pointing out big craters where the Amercians bombed them during the war, so that wasn't awkward at all for all the French and American people on the trip!!

After traipsing round for a while we were taken away and put back on the bus and some of us were getting the boat back to Hoi An. We stopped in the middle of nowhere by a building site and had to walk amongst diggers etc to get to the river and onto the boat. Lunch was served which consisted of cold rice with congealed veggies and tofu. Mmmm, my favourite!! I ate it as I was starving but a lot of people didn't! After the gormet lunch we stopped off at a village on an island where they do lots of wood carvings and you could watch them making things which was quite interesting. The island got flooded in September and on one of the houses you could see how high the water had come up. The place looked almost back to normal though so they appeared to have recovered well...

Once back in Hoi An we went to get the rest of our clothes, and then had to buy a bag to put them in! We hung out at our hotel for a while, waiting for the night bus and the owner gave us some scarfs as a thank you for buying our clothes at her sister's shop (we probably spent enough in there to feed and house them for a year!) and asked me to write a good review. The way she said it though made the scarves seem like a bribe which they needn't have been as we thought the hotel was great! I figured she was like some sort of Mafia Don the way she carried herself and walked around so I readily agreed to do anything she wanted me to!! We had to wait around for ages for the bus but finally it turned up just down the road so we got on and off we went to Nha Trang! The set out of the bus was great, in that everyone had a mini bed and you could adjust the chair to sitting or lying position. The problem was that it was a bit like a dentist's chair and was a bit awkward, and coupled with a really bumpy road meant we didn't really get that much sleep...!

Nha Trang

We arrived at 6am, feeling like complete and utter shite! The hotel had offered to come and pick us up but they didn't show so we went off in search of the place. Lots of people try and get to you come to their place but as we had a reservation for somewhere else we just headed there... In retrospect I wish we had tried somewhere else! The place wasn't that bad, I have stayed in a LOT worse, but this was definately the worst hotel of the whole trip. The main issue I had was that the room didn't have any windows!! I didn't notice at first as there was a window in the corner but there was a brick wall about a foot behind it so we got no natural light! It's like a cell! Also they don't have a restaurant or anything so whilst you can order breakfast, it gets brought up to your room and we have to sit on the beds to eat it!! And it takes them a good half an hour to put together a bottle of water, a couple of rolls and some jam!

Anyway, we spent a lazy day there, recovering from the night bus and wandering around the town. We organised a trip for the next day and then went for a walk and just got massively lost and ended up miles away from where we were staying and I nearly trod on a dead rat! So after screaming like a proper girl and running away from it, we decided that was enough for one day and turned around and walked back! After that bit of excitement I got a Vietnamese massage - not sure what the difference was compared to any other massage but it was OK and then went for a little snooze - the hotel lost power so our room was pitch black, as was the staircase that we had to walk up to get to our room! It was conducive to sleep though! In the evening we tried to find a restaurant that was recommended in the LP as proceeds went to street kids but we couldn't find it so just settled for a normal one! They seated us next to a tank of fish which scared me when I turned around and was confronted by potentially people's dinner for that night, and after the waiter had stopped laughing at us he very kindly moved us somewhere that was fish free (but we had to sit next to some Aussies instead - not sure which was worse...!!!!)

The next day we went out on a boat - Mel went diving and I went snorkelling. I had my ususal panic attack whilst I had to re-train myself that it's OK to breathe whilst my face is underwater and then once I got that sorted I was good to go! The guys on the boat told me to jump in but I just laughed and then took the stairs into the water! I'm such a wuss when it comes to water activities! It was a bit cold in the water but it was good fun swimming around and looking at all the coral and fish. We went to a different spot a bit later and Mel came snorkelling too and we gave her new camera a test of it's waterproof-ness, and I'm pleased to say it did well! We got a few good snaps of the fish, and lots of photos of blurred things and bit of rock when the fish were too fast...!!

We lazed on the boat for a while after all the exhausting swimming around and I got a lovely burnt stomach as I forgot to put sunscreen on that bit! It's a big bit to forget too and was a bit sore for a few days afterwards so I learnt my lesson the hard way on that!

The next day we had organised to go on motorbikes for the day! I've never been on one before so was quite excited, and a little bit scared as well as I've seen how they drive over here!

We met our guides for the day and they both seemed like nice people! Their English was a bit limited but good enough! They brought their bikes round the front of the office, on we jumped and off we went! I didn't really like the idea of holding the guy round the waist as I didn't want to give him the wrong idea so early on in the day and I managed to find a little handle thing under the seat so just held onto that! Fortunately he drove very carefully and not too fast so soon enough I wasn't holding on at all!!

We stopped off at lots of little places and they were really good at explainig what was going on and they kept taking our cameras so they could take lots of photos of us! We stopped at a fishing village, a lobster farm, a place where they turn lobster shells into tourist tat!, some rice paddies, someone's house where they carve tables and huge statues out of wood and then we had a stop where we walked up to this great little waterfall! At first I wasn't sure about going in as it wasn't that warm, but after the walk up to it and scrambling over lots of rocks I was ready for a dip in the water! There was only 3 other people there and then they left so we had the whole place to ourselves! It was so nice!

After that we rode around for a while longer and then took us for lunch in a little restaurant by a river and we were the only women and non locals there! I had noodles with shrimps and veggies (like everyone else there!) and it tasted so good! It was really nice to go somewhere that locals eat and not go to tourist places all the time! Then we went for a wander along a very dilapadated bridge and managed to walk across it and back without it collapsing which was lucky! We visited a family that makes a living from weaving mats and we had a go at it! There were two sisters doing it and they didn't speak any English but kept laughing at our poor efforts! It was great fun though, and the guys told us all about the family which was quite interesting - there were three generations of the same family living in one house. After that we went to a mud bath thing which was a bit of an odd experience - we sat in mud for a while and then a few different spa things. Not sure if it really did anything but it was a pleasant way to spend a couple of hours!! After that we headed back to Nha Trang.

It was such a nice day. The guys were really friendly and funny and tried so hard to make it a really good day, which it was! After the whole cyclo debacle in Hue I was a bit wary that they were being so nice as they wanted a tip but I don't think they did expect one, although we did buy them lunch but we were happy to do that... It was probably the highlight of the whole trip - we saw and did so much and had a great time cruising around on the bikes too!!

Ho Chi Minh City

Another night bus later and we arrived in HCMC at 5.30am! And typically it was the first time we couldn't check in early so had to kill time until 9am! We sat in the park for a while and watched people play badminton and do aerobics (who does that so early in the morning, other than me when I did a boxing class at 5.30am for a while, but soon gave it up as it killed me!), and then went for a walk, trying a) not to get killed by the millions of people on motorbikes and b) to find somewhere that was open for breakfast! Managed to accomplish both, although it was the first time Mel had issues with being a vegetarian - we consulted the LP to find the Vietnamese for 'I'm a vegetarian', the girl nodded and then pointed to a spagetti carbonara that has, um, bacon or ham in it!!! And why would anyone want that for breakfast anyway?!! Well we managed to sort it out anyway so everyone was happy!

We finally checked into the hotel which was great, although our room was on the fifth floor and there were no lifts! It kept us fit though! We headed out for lunch to a restaurant that the girl in the hotel had recommended. I decided to try something a bit different instead of eating the same thing all the time - I chose dumplings and a few other things I wanted to try for a starter, only when it came out it looked nothing like what I had ordered. I still have no idea if it was or not! One of them was this hard jelly thing with what I'm guessing with pork inside. I tried to eat one and it was making me gag but I didn't really feel I could spit it out so I kept chewing but that wasn't really doing anything so in the end I just had to swallow it! It was pretty horrible and I felt like I could taste it for the rest of the day!! The main course was slightly better but not great either - bits of pork that had fat and other nasty bits in it that you made rice paper rolls with, along with some salad stuff to put in it! It wasn't the best meal that I had but it's always good to try something different!

After that we went and checked out Independence Palace - it's a bit stuck in 1975 from the South Vietnamese government. It's quite a bizarre place really, there's lots of reception rooms, I can't imagine why you would need so many! The decor was very special too, although I guess it fitted in well 35 years ago!!

In the evening we went to a water puppet show! It's just the thing to do when you're in Vietnam! It's one of the strangest things I have ever seen! There were people at either side of the stage singing and playing musical instruments and then in the middle is a big tank of water and all these different puppets run around! I think there's some sort of story but as it was in Vietnamese I have no idea what it was all about! It was just really funny to watch, although I'm not sure that that's the idea! At the end all the puppeteers come out to take a bow and they're fully dressed - if you're going to get soaking wet why don't you just wear a pair of shorts or something?!!

The next day we went to the Cu Chi Tunnels, which were really interesting but yet again we had the most over enthusiastic guide whose name, ironically was Ms Quiet!! I wish! There were so many people there and too many people in our group so we were just being herded round like sheep and everyone getting in everyone else's way which got quite annoying. We got to see lots of tunnels and all the tactics they used to stop the Americans - they were all quite brutal though, and lots of them involved spears and stakes, which I imagine wouldn't be a particularly nice way to die... But every man for himself though I guess... The best thing was that we got to shoot an AK47, yeah!!! There was a shooting range there and you could choose from a few differen types of guns and then just buy the bullets!! The lack of safety equipment and regulations was just amazing! We had to queue up for ages to buy the bullets and we were standing right next to the shooting range so it was pretty loud! Then once we had bought the bullets some guy that doesn't speak any English takes you down to the range and gives you a completely ineffective pair of ear protectors! Then he loads the gun, shows you where to put your hands and off you go! The first time was a bit of a shock as the kick back is quite big and went straight into my shoulder! But after that I got used to it and it was quite good fun! One of the empty pellets flew out and hit Mel on the head but there was no blood so she was OK!

We also went into one of the tunnels which wasn't really very nice. I can't imagine how people hid and lived in these tunnels for so long. They're really short and narrow and dark and really hot, we were only down there for a couple of minutes and started sweating! And then after that we got herded back on the bus and driven back to HCMC, without lunch as people were moaning that we'd taken too long already!

In the afternoon Mel had her sunglasses stolen so after a very long trip to the police station we went out to celebrate the New Year! We went out for a really nice dinner, with cocktails, and then headed to a bar. It was heaving in there, and enough people started dancing so that we created our own dance floor and eventually they cleared some tables and chairs so we could bop away without causing any damage!! The music was great for ages and then it suddenly turned a bit wierd so we left and went for a walk in the park where there was lots going on, and then ended up in another bar, and toasted the new year in with strawberry daiquiris!!! All very nice! But then we had to get up at 6.30am so didn't stay out too late!

The next day was a day trip on the Mekong Delta. We were up early which we weren't used to so as we had a three hour cruise along the river I took the opportunity to have a little snooze! We visited a few different islands and the tour guide was like a little Hitler, frog marching us around, telling us not to stop and look at anything but to just follow him! We had some tropical fruit, watched some people sing and play some music, saw some honey bees, and then tasted the honey (including honey tea and rice wine!), on Unicorn Island and saw people making coconut sweets, which were REALLY nice on Coconut Island! We got in little boats that the locals rowed on a narrow river. It was really cool but as all the other people in boats went past they were whispering "Hello, tip money" like they were trying to tap into your sub conscience and make you tip the people rowing... It was very wierd. At the end when you get off the boat they wait for you to tip them so you don't really have any choice, although some people just ignored them and I felt a bit sorry for those people that didn't get any tips when most of the others did...

Lunch was pretty bad - cold and tasteless. We then had to hook up with another tour group to get us back to HCMC, which meant that we had two hours to kill on an island that had nothing to do. We just walked for ages until we realised it probably didn't go round in a loop and then had to walk all the way back again!! There wasn't really anything to see though and the island just looked the same as a lot of other villages that we'd seen! And then it was just a complete farce to try and get home - there were so many people wanting to get back that they didn't have enough boats so we had to wait for more to turn up, then we lost someone so spent ages looking for them, only to find that they weren't going back and had decided to stay on! The boat that we did finally get was the slowest one I have ever been on and just took forever to go such a short distance! Then we were getting the bus back to HCMH but they didn't have enough of those either so we had to wait for some more to turn up!!! It was a nightmare! But we made it back in the end!!

Our last day in Vietnam!! We're so sad to leave as I've had such an amazing time here. We've managed to fit in so many things and we've done so many different things too, it's just been fantastic! We went to the War Remnants museum which was possibly one of the worst things to do as it was so depressing - there were some really graphic pictures and stories of what had happened to families and people in different villages, it was really sad. There was also a picture of lots of deformed foetuses in jars which was horrible, and lots of pictures of deformed children due to the effect of Agent Orange. I also went into the torture area, which was very graphic in describing all the torturing that went on in the prisons and detention camps, it was just awful.

We weren't quite sure what to do after that, other than slit our wrists!, so decided to go for lunch... We've come full circle - on our last day, after having seen so many restaurants everywhere you go, we end up in an area where we couldn't find a single one that was open... So we end up in the Thai Express, just like our first night!

And after that, we wandered around some art shops as we loved the paintings over here and wanted to get one, then we had a quick pedicure and finally we were off to the airport and back home to Melbourne...

Wednesday, 9 January 2008

Tasmania

The Road to Tassie...

From Sydney Jo, Del and I embarked on a road trip to Melbourne via Canberra which was interesting...! We thought it would be a nice coastal drive but apparently you only see the coast if you do the whole coastal route from Sydney! Instead we got a lot of barren countryside and a night in Cooma which believe me really isn't a place you want to spend that much time in!! But we made it in the end, and when we got to Melbourne we even managed to find Ramsay street which was really exciting!!
We spent a day in the Yarra Valley which was lovely, and then the next day I hopped on a plane to Tassie! The new year must be bringing some good luck to me, journey wise as I was sitting in between a lovely, although slightly crazy, Aussie couple on the flight which was quite entertaining! Then when we got to Hobart I hopped on a bus and found my way to the hostel and there was Aisling waiting for me!

Hobart
We went out to find some food - Tassie is known for it's fish and seafood, so we thought we'd go down to Constitution Dock and see what was happening there. Unfortunately as we crossed the road Ash managed to rip her skirt to an indecent way up her leg, so we had to run back to the hostel before too many people got to see her undies!! So that was a good start! And then it seems that Hobart is quite a busy place as everywhere we went you needed a reservation! So we ended up at an Indian, which I'm always a big fan of and anyway, you can get fish any time! As we walked back to our hostel we heard some music and saw lots of people sitting on some grass, so we decided to join them! There was a distillery with a bar and some live music outside the place so we sat there for a drink, listening to the girl and her guitar which was really good. It was such a nice atmosphere, really chilled out and relaxed.

The next day we hired a car and set off for the open road! For no apparent reason they gave us an upgrade so we got ourselves a Nissan Tiida, and I know nothing about cars but it seems quite a good one to me!! Our first stop was Richmond which was on the Convict Trail and was a lovely little town (I wonder how many times I'm going to say this over the next few weeks...?!). It has a famous bridge there too which wasn't as big as I thought it was going to be but it still looked nice!
From there we went onto Port Arthur. This was a big convict settlement in the 1800s and was quite an interesting place. We got a guided tour round the place and also went on a little boat tour round the islands which was good. Then I bumped into the mad couple from the plane which was bizarre but very funny to see them again! They greeted me like a long lost friend even though I had only met them the day before!!

We spent the afternoon walking all around the area and going into all the buildings. They have little plays on in the courtyards too which are really interesting to see as it gives you a little taste of what life was like back then. We had booked to go on the ghost tour in the evening but it doesn't get dusk here until after 9pm and so wouldn't get back to Hobart until after 1am, and seeing as we had some annoying old women in our room who like to get up at 6am each morning we didn't want to get back too late. That and we were a little bit scared of the ghosts aswell...!

The next day we went out to Mount Wellington for some fantastic views of Hobart. Ash thought she had broken the central locking of the car, but for some reason it just didn't work up there which was a bit weird! Then from there we drove to the Moorilla Winery for some wine tasting, but weren't overly impressed so decided not to buy anything! And then we went to the Cascades Brewery for a tour and some samples!! The tour was really interesting as they take you all around the factory, give you a lesson in how to make beer, and then you get to see everything going on and get in the way of all the men at work! And afterwards we went to the bar for our 3 free samples of their beer! They have a really nice beer garden too so it was great to sit in the sun and have a few cold beers!
Tasmania is pretty busy at the moment, and it seems you have to be a bit organised and book things ahead! Well we hadn't and so were a bit stuck on the accommodation front. Eventually we managed to find a place in Bicheno up the east coast, so after our day in Hobart we moseyed on up the coast...
Bicheno
Things didn't start off so well in this place - we found the Seaview Holiday Park where we were supposed to be staying and it was a complete hole! We were the only people in the dorm of 10 but the beds were tiny and really manky and there was no bedding and it was really cold at night - all I had was my sarong! Also there was no key, the door just slid shut and in the night random people kept walking into our room and then walking out again!! We decided to spend as little time possible in the place and so went into town for some food. We soon realised that 'town' was little more than a road and a few shops, most of which were shut!! We eventually found a restaurant and even though it had 11 people in there (wohoo!) the waitress had to ask the chef if they could cope with another 2 people... Fortunately for us she said yes and so we spent a very nice evening eating good food and then had to go back to our little hell hole for a few hours kip! We did contemplate sleeping in the car but figured as we had paid for the beds we might as well use them...!!

In the morning though we couldn't face showers there so we went round the corner to a hostel we had booked into for the following night, and after laughing at us for a while he let us in so we could use the showers and have some brekkie before we set off for the day! We got very excited when the guy gave us sheets for our beds - how the simple things please us!!!
According to the good old Lonely Planet there are only 750 people in this town so that probably goes a long way to explaining why it is like it is...! We popped into the Tourist Information place and ended up talking to a crazy lady who gave us very little information apart from that fact there were 2 Chicken Feeds along the way to Launceston (which is handy when we don't have any chickens!) and a very nice place for Devonshire tea which she went to last year when some boat race was on but naturally that's only on once a year and it's not now!! How informative!!
Freycinet National Park
We drove down to the National Park and went on a little hike that the guy from the hostel recommended. It was 11 kms and took about 5 hours but the beauty of it not getting dark until after 9pm means you have so much more time to do stuff!! So we set off and the first thing we saw was a little wallaby sitting in the middle of the path! It didn't seem bothered by people though and I reckon it was happy to exchange photos for some food from the odd tourist! Anyway, we carried on upwards in the extreme heat until we got to a lookout of Wineglass Bay. It was an amazing sight. The sea was a gorgeous blue, the sand was white and behind all this was some lush green forest. We walked down to the Bay and sat on the beach to have lunch. It was so hot so it was quite nice to chill out there for half and hour and take in all the scenery. Then instead of going back the same way which looked a bit hard to us we carried on round to Hazards Beach. This was even more impressive than Wineglass Bay, more for the fact that it was pretty much deserted and so we had the place to ourselves. We walked along the beach, avoiding all the jellyfish and it was lovely! Then from there we went up some rocks and inland a bit back to the starting point. On the way back though we had some great views of the beach and the sea, but sometimes photos just don't do any justice!

After this trek we decided to go home via Friendly Beaches! Some more lovely white sand beaches that we strolled along for a while! And then back to Bicheno! Again we struggled to find somewhere to eat - I thought we'd go to the nice sounding Silver Sands but it wasn't so nice looking and was closed (in the busiest season too!) so we ended up at a French restaurant, again there were only 6 other people in the restaurant but the waiter had to get permission from the chef for another 2!! What is it round here, I don't get it!

Once dusk had fallen we were told to go and look for some little penguins down by the Blowhole. Other people went on $20 trips to a different part of town but we walked down to the Blowhole (without a torch which was very clever!) and after Ash nearly shat herself when she heard a noise we realised it was the little penguins making that noise!! They were so small and really cute! I didn't quite get what the deal was, we figured the parents were off getting the food and the babies were just running riot around the rocks but it was great to see them! I just hope the parents found enough food for them all!
In the morning I went back to see what the deal was with the blowhole as people were raving about it... It as basically a hole in some rocks and when a big wave came up water blows up into the air out of the hole!!! Marvellous! I then went for a bit of a walk round the bay just to see what everyone was raving about when they talk about Bicheno! I think maybe you need to have children here or perhaps just not have travelled as much so you have lower expectations of things, I'm not sure, but anyway a few days here was enough, the National Park was fantastic and it was time to move on...!!
St Helens & the Bay of Fires

We drove up to St Helens along the coast which was all very nice! St Helens has a population of 2,000 people so almost like civilisation!! It even had the internet, a cinema and a supermarket, wow!! But no phone reception so you can't have everything!! It seemed a nice enough place though, although as soon as we arrived we realised that one night was going to be enough here!!

In the afternoon we drove up to Binalong Bay and then the Bay of Fires. Just more beaches really, and all pretty stunning! From Garden Point you could see all the way up to Eddystone Point and the Lighthouse and it was all very lovely! We sat on one of the beaches for an hour or so but it was so hot that I couldn't cope for much longer than that! So I decided to chill back at the hostel for a few hours whilst Ash drove all the way back to Bicheno to get her phone - the owner of the hostel took the sheets off her bed with the phone still in them and put them in the washing machine! Personally I think Ash was just desperate to get back to Bicheno and so hid the phone there!!!

I met an Aussie and a Kiwi in the hostel who were friendly enough and so spent most of the evening with them, chatting and watching TV! They had gone out to find a pub and some place to eat but weren't overly impressed with the lack of options and the town was generally a bit dead so lucky for them they got our company instead!!! It was good to meet other people that had the same general opinion of Tassie - it's a beautiful place and it's all very nice etc etc but it's a little bit backwards at times and the pace of life is very slow!! We had started to think that there wasn't actually that much to do in Tassie and were struggling a bit to fill up our days but after talking to some people and going into an Information place that gives half decent information we realised that there is actually quite a lot to do here!!

We did realise though that the Chicken Feed place the crazy lady was talking about is not actually a pace for chicken feed but it's one of those discount shops that has everything you could ever need, as well as all those things you never will need! I don't know why they don't have them on the mainland as the adverts make them look like a great place to shop and so one of the activities for the next day was to find one!! Ha ha, we know how to live!!

The road to Launceston

On our way to Launceston we made a few pit stops along the way... First was Columba Falls. Unfortunately you could see it from the road so after driving ages to get there we already knew we were going to be disappointed by what we saw. But we walked up to the viewing platform just to make sure we were properly disappointed!! The waterfall wasn't the greatest but then again it is summer and there are severe water restrictions on so what could we expect?!! The walk through the woods was nice though!!

Next was the Pub in the Paddock. Here we met the guys from the hostel who had also come to visit the highlight of the area! In this pub they had 2 pigs and you could feed beer to them! Well that was something everyone wanted to do!! So after a cup of proper tea in the pub we got a couple of bottles of home brew and bottle fed a pig!! I've never seen a pig drink so fast, but then again I don't think I have ever bottle fed a pig or seen it being done, so it was quite impressive!! I wondered how many bottles a pig could sink a day before it got completely plastered and fell over but apparently the home brew is pretty tame and so the chances of seeing a drunk pig was quite minimal!!

After this we had a bit of a windy drive up and down hills which was a bit hairy at times! So when we got to Derby we stopped for afternoon tea and scones (another recommendation by crazy lady at the Bicheno tourist place!)! Then we went for a bit of a stroll to see what Derby had to offer... Not much it seemed so we carried on!

Next stop was Scottsdale, home to a Chicken Feed store! We were so excited to finally see one after all the hype that we even took photos, much to the amusement of the locals! It was one of those shops that had everything and it was all really cheap - I bought a Bananarama CD for $10, bargain!! I don't think the people of Scottsdale had ever heard of them though as h they started taking the piss, I can't believe employees of Chicken Feed were laughing at me!!! Ash got a bit over excited and ended up buying CDs, DVDs and god knows what else as it was so cheap!!

Launceston

We finally in Launceston and after driving round the town a few times we ended up at the hostel! Didn't have too long here though, after a trip to the supermarket and then a fight with hundreds of Asians for stove space in the kitchen it was almost time for bed...!! Well that's what I thought anyway, but Ash wanted to check out the thriving night scene so we visited the local Irish bar for a few beers! In the north Boag's is the beer of choice as the brewery is in Launceston but we didn't know the first thing about it and so I had to embarrass myself and ask the barman to recommend me a type of Boag's to drink! We went for the draught and it was pretty good! However, unlike any other bar I've ever been to in Australia, this one had a closing time and we got kicked out sometime after midnight!! oh well, it wasn't exactly kicking but at least we'd tried!!!

Cradle Mountain

We drove to Cradle Mountain via some pretty hairy roads but we're starting to get used to them now!! We booked to stay in the most expensive hostel ever - $40 a night for a bed in a 4 bed dorm and then we had to pay an additional $6 for sheets! I'm so glad I left my sleeping bag in Melbourne as everywhere else I've been in Australia bedding is generally provided! Also the water in the cabins wasn't drinkable, lucky for me I had my purification tablets that I'd been carrying around with me for the last year and have only used once or twice - I'd expect to use them in the darkest depths of S America somewhere but certainly never expected to be using them in Australia! Oh well, good job I was prepared really!

We spent the afternoon walking round Dove Lake, which was a really pretty walk, quite easy too!, and the backdrop was Cradle Mountain! It was a lovely day and the views were great.

After a little afternoon nap we went into the kitchen to cook dinner and were surrounded by raucous Germans! Not what I was expecting at all! Most places we have been we are the youngest by a long way and this was no exception! Then they all kept making speeches and wouldn't shut up, and there was so many of them they had used all the forks so we were scrabbling around for something to eat our dinner with! Then as our culinary skills only extended to jacket potatoes that night they all kept staring as us whilst we ate which was really nice!
Fortunately we had planned a little night safari so managed to escape the craziness in the kitchen!! We went to a Tasmanian Devil centre where we got a pat a Devil and then watched them being fed. It was really good to watch them fight over the bit of meat and play and growl at each other!! But the guy who was running to show had a clear dislike of people generally, and more specifically every one's generally lack of knowledge of the Devils and other animals! He seemed quite pissed off most of the time, going on about how he gets so annoyed when people believe rumours or myths about the Devil... So that was an interesting hour or so, although he did have some interesting things to say when he wasn't being so condescending to everyone!!
After that we went animal spotting! We drove around the National Park with spotlights (could we be any more touristy!) and then oohed and aahed every time we saw something! It was pretty cool though as we saw Wallabies, Devils, Wombats, Possums, and Quolls. But it was nearly midnight by the time we got back and I was pretty knackered so had started to lose enthusiasm by the time I saw my 20th Possum...!!
In the morning we were up bright and early ish, ready for our walk up to Cradle Mountain. It was about a 12km walk and was to take 6-8hours. I had read loads of stuff about how hard it was and how you needed to be prepared etc etc, and was a little concerned seeing as most of my hiking gear was sitting in Melbourne! But it was a beautiful day and I could survive with what I had so off we went! I soon realised anyway, that I was more experienced and prepared than about 75% of the other hikers who rocked up in jeans, shoes with no grip, no food or waterproofs etc so I don't know what I was worrying about!

We got to the first signpost and had the option of going up to Marion's lookout via a steep and rough trail (1hr) or an uphill trail (1hr 10). After a bit of debate we figured we were still warming up and so the uphill trail won! It went via Lake Lilla, Wombat Peak and Wombat Pool and we got a view of the Crater Lake aswell. It was a bit steep though with lots of steps up and the old heart rate went through the roof but the view from Marion's lookout towards Cradle Mountain and over Dove Lake was great. After a quick stop for a banana and a photo we carried on over an easy trail to the bottom of the mountain. It was sunny and hot during the day, but the wind was quite strong at times which made the ascent to the summit a bit more of a challenge at times!

The only way to the top of the mountain was basically over lots of big rocks and was supposed to take about 2 1/2hrs return. The bit before the rocks was pretty bloody steep and hard work and it just went on forever!! But then we got the the rocks! It was a bit tricky at times working out where the best route was but they had markers so you could figure out where you were heading for and in a perverse way it was easier as you were concentrating so hard on where to go next that progress was slower and you forgot about the fact you were going up and up... Until we hit a traffic jam as some stupid girl was coming back down and started panicking and crying as she couldn't get down one of the rocks. I felt sorry for her but when you go up you know you have to come back down again and as there was only one route at this particular point she was holding people up in both directions. But eventually she made it down! Only problem was this girl, and an English guy who was above her coming down freaked Ash out and she decided to not go that much further. I was starting to have second thoughts too but carried on for a bit longer, just to see how far away we were. I went to stop but then met a couple and the guy kept telling me we weren't that far from the summit and you can't come all this way and not go to the top! Fair point really! So I carried on upwards over more bloody rocks! This is when it sucks to have little legs sometimes as a couple of times my legs weren't long enough to get up onto the next rock so I had to pull myself up with my arms and hope for the best!!! And I made it in the end which was excellent! I got some photos taken to prove I was up there, marvelled at the views for a while and then realised I was starving and Ash had lunch so I'd better head back down to her before she thought I'd fallen off the side of the mountain...!!

As I was almost back to where she had been waiting she popped up over one of the rocks and said lots of people had told her it wasn't that bad and she should go up to the top...!! So I turned round and back we went to the top again!! At least this time we could sit up there and have lunch and we went to the other side of the summit for a different view!

We eventually started the descent back down as we were starting to get tired and knew it was going to take a while! I don't find getting down too hard as at least you can jump when your legs aren't long enough to reach, but after a while your legs start to feel like Bambi's!! Coming down we saw a few women going up who were with their partner and they were holding their hands and putting their feet where they needed to go! They looked terrified too so I have no idea what they were doing up there as it was going to take them hours!! And then I thought of Ash and me - we didn't need to try and impress a bloke and go up with them, we were actually mad enough to do it just for fun!!!

We got back down the hard bit and then just needed to get back to the car park and then we could collapse!! I didn't really want to go back the way we had come and saw another path other people were taking so hoped it would lead right down to the Lake and then we could go round the Lake back to the car park. Unfortunately that wasn't the case and we had to go round for quite a while (away from our final destination!) and then down a 'rough and steep' path and then we ended up pretty much at the opposite end of the Lake to where we wanted to be so had to walk around it to get back to the car park and then shuttle bus to take us back to our cabin! It took quite a while but we got there in the end and I have never been so happy to see a car park in all my life!! I think people thought we were mad as we started jumping up and down but we didn't care!!
We collapsed in our seats on the shuttle and then got back to our cabin. I didn't want to go to sleep straight away as I knew I wouldn't get up again so we had hot showers, cooked dinner (in a nice quiet kitchen this time which was bliss!) and then chilled out in our room listening to music, reading etc before passing out! What a way to spend a Saturday night!!!
Back to Launceston
We woke up in the morning and every muscle in my body ached! I can't remember the last time I have been in this much pain!! There wasn't even much chance of a lie in either as we had to be out the room by 9.30!! We packed up, drove back to Launceston (but missed the turning so it took about an hour longer than it should've done!) and then collapsed in the hostel for a while!

We checked out the sights of Launceston in the afternoon, only to realise there weren't any! We found another Chicken Feed but the novelty had quickly worn off and we saw it as how most people prob saw it - a shop full of tat!! Anyway, we ended up (along with half of Launceston or the tourists at least!) going to the cinema and saw 27 Dresses which was really good!! We were still pretty knackered after yesterday's exploits and were in quite a lot of pain so had our last dinner together and then just chilled out at the hostel before having another earlyish night!

I'm quite surprised by the number of older people staying in hostels, in dorm rooms too! In St Helens this woman who on first glance looked about 90 but when I spoke to her I think she was probably in her 70s was staying in our room (and snored REALLY loudly all night!) and then in Launceston there was another one who was probably in her 60s but she did a lot of travelling so she suited the place a bit better. At Cradle Mountain there was another oldie too who didn't seem that capable of too much but plodded along quite happily! As much as I admire them I'd like to think that when I'm their age I'll be able to afford more than a room to share with some random strangers!!!
Abandoned and all by myself - Launceston to Queenstown

I dropped Ash off at the airport on Mon morning and all of a sudden I was by myself and had no idea what to do!! It's wierd sometimes, I don't mind travelling by myself but when I've been travelling with someone else and then find myself alone again I'm not very good at adapting!!
Anyway, I drove up to Devonport to see what was happening up there... Not a lot so it turned out! The most exciting thing that happened was someone asking me if I was over 21! I saw they were going to try and sell me something so said no I wasn't!! Ha ha, the first time looking young has been a good thing!

From here I went on up to Penguin and then Burnie. Wasn't much going on in either of those places too! I was going to go up to Stanley to see The Nut, but then decided a few hundred kilometres wasn't really justified by a 10 min walk up The Nut so decided to head straight for Queenstown via Strahan, and then get to Hobart a day early as there's quite a lot down there to do. Sorted! I went into the Information place in Burnie to find some accommodation for Queenstown and the people were falling over themselves to help me! One woman had relatives in Dorking and the other was born in Redhill, both of which are nearish my gran! Anyway, they sorted me out some accommodation and off I went!
I went via Strahan, which was a really nice little place, although not much happening there, and then carried onto Queenstown. As soon as I got there I thought maybe I had got it completely wrong and should've stayed in Strahan as Queenstown looked a not very nice place for a girl on her own to spend the night...! It was a mining town and there was a bit of a strange feel to the place. I stayed in a motel and their 'dorm' room was actually a single room but for $20 I wasn't going to complain! It has a funny smell though and I decided straight away there was no way I was going to have a shower there - there was just a curtain for a shower door (and there was no door into the women's bathroom either), and there were quite a few odd men around...!
I resisted the urge to sit in my room and mope and went for a wander instead to see what there was in the town. It looked a bit like a town out of a western movie and it was pretty deserted, apart from a bit of a racket in one of the local bars, as well as the odd car load of men coming back from a day's work and looking at me as if I had 2 heads...!
I went for a minimal dinner as there were other people trying to cook in the 'kitchen' and limited things like cutlery and plates etc so just had my bowl of soup (once i had robbed a bowl from another deserted kitchen!) and managed to get through the evening avoiding talking to any strange men! I opted for an early night so that I could get up early and leave as soon as I could in the morning!!
I guess it wasn't that bad a place really, I just was a bit shell shocked to be back by myself again and wanted to stay in a nice welcoming town in a friendly hostel where I had people to talk to! Not too much to ask generally but Tassie is a bit of a strange place sometimes...! Oh well, it's all part of the experience!!
Queenstown to Hobart

So I was up pretty early and on my way at 8am. First stop was Lake St Clair, which is the end of the Overland Track which starts up by Cradle Mountain. I went for a walk by the Lake for a couple of hours and on my way back I saw an echidna which I've never seen before so that was quite exciting!! It was lovely round by the Lake and it was a lovely day, so after all my aimless driving yesterday it was good to get out and stretch the legs! It was tempting to do another long walk now that my legs had recovered from the expedition up the mountain but didn't really have the time as had to be in Hobart that night...
From there I carried on towards Hobart, stopping off at Mt Field National Park. I walked to Russell Falls, then up to Horsehoe Falls. Both were quite nice but not overly impressive. I carried on up to the Tall Trees walk were yes there were lots of tall trees and on my way I came across a wallaby who bounded across the path in front of me, and then another echidna. I walked amongst these huge trees, which were pretty impressive and then decided to carry on to Lady Baron Falls. On my way a snake decided to slither across my path! It was completely uninterested in me and went along on its merry way but did give me a bit of a scare, especially as there was no one else around! So after that I was slightly paranoid about what else was going to be in the forest but fortunately they all stayed away and so the rest of my walk was fairly unadventurous!!

From here I continued the drive to Hobart. The Cadbury factory tours were all booked up so I couldn't go on one of those which I was a bit disappointed about, so just went straight into town and headed for the hostel. I decided to stay at a different one this time, which was fine, although there was no bedding, the rooms were tiny, you had to fight over the hot plates in the kitchen and at night one of the girls in my room made some sort of whistling sound which kept me awake for hours!!! But apart from that it was fine!!!
Hobart

My last day in Hobart/Tassie and the last day with the car so I decided to go on a final road trip! I headed off to Bruny Island as I had heard good things about it and it was supposed to be quite nice there. I caught the ferry over and drove around for a while. It's quite a small island - made up of North and South Bruny Island with a strip of land joining them, and the tarmac roads suddenly give way to gravel roads with no warning. Which is a bit bizarre! Although most cars seemed to be able to cope with the bumpy roads, mine seemed to spray stones everywhere and made a horrible noise and I was a bit concerned the car was going to end up with scratched everywhere and we were going to get charged so I kept driving REALLY slowly on these roads, good job there was no one else around as I might have caused some road rage!!!
I headed down towards Adventure Bay and went for a walk round the coast to Penguin Island which was part of the South Bruny National Park. It was a nice walk along the coast although it started to rain for a bit. After that I wasn't sure what else to do. It seemed there wasn't much to do, apart from walks that were 4+ hours and I didn't really have the time... So I drove round a bit, ended up on a very steep, windy, gravel road for 10kms which wasn't a pleasant experience!, and after all the fuss and panic it didn't really take me anywhere either!! So in the end I headed back towards the ferry. I stopped at a lookout where you had fantastic views of the North and South Island and even though it was bloody windy and took ages to climb up to the lookout, the views were amazing. So in the end this island was definately worht the visit!

So after that bit of excitement, I caught the ferry back, drove back to Hobart and dropped the car off, had my last fish and chips by the water and then the next day hopped back on a plane to Melbourne. Holiday time is over now and it's back to the real world and the job hunt, how marvellous!!!

New Year in Sydney!

So after nearly three weeks freezing my arse off in the UK and running around like a mad person trying to see everyone I hopped back on a plane to the other side of the world again! It was great to see everyone again and it was amazing how easily I slipped back into life back home again but I wasn't quite ready to give up my Oz work visa just yet...

The cheapest option for me to get back to Oz was with Korean Air which was an interesting decision! It wasn't too bad overall I guess, the first flight to Seoul was about 11 hours and I had some good movies to watch, the food, although wasn't Qantas standards it was edible (although they did try to feed me a Korean style breakfast which didn't go down too well so was quite happy when they managed to find me a western style meal!), and even though the old woman next to me didn't speak a word of English she was harmless enough!! Then after about 4 hours at Seoul airport it was back on another plane to Sydney. This time, for the first time ever I think, I had a normal person sitting next to me who I could talk to! Which was lucky really as we didn't have our own TVs so how else was I going to pass 10 hours?!

Anyway, we landed in Sydney about 7.30am and it was already about 21 degrees! This is what I've missed!!! The weather is fab over here at the moment so it's all good! I had one day to recover and then it was time to celebrate the New Year!

Six of us had decided to pay a ridiculous amount of money for a decent view of the fireworks over the Opera House and the Harbour Bridge. Seeing as this is the only time I plan to be in Sydney for New Year I figured we might aswell do it properly! I had started to wonder if this was such a good idea, but then the thought of camping out in the Botannical Gardens all day didn't really appeal so I think in the end it was the best thing to do. We had an amazing view right by the harbour and could see across without any annoying people in the way! We got a three course meal, a bar on hand and a little dance floor so we were sorted for the night!! And I have to say this rates as one of the best (if not the best!) New Year ever!! There were fireworks at 9pm and midnight and they were just spectacular! I'm not a big fan of fireworks normally but these were pretty damn impressive!! And they went on for ages too!

After midnight we got a bit carried away on the dance floor - I met some random Spanish guy that I decided to talk at (my Spanish always improves with the more alcohol I drink!) and so he was spinning me round the floor for a while, which left me with sore feet so I had to hobble home later! But it was all good fun and just an excellent night all round! We wandered into town once the party had finished and it was just heaving with people but there seemed nowhere else to go so in the end we made our way back to Bondi and passed out! Hello 2008!!

Saturday, 3 November 2007

On the Road in Australia, and beyond...

Byron Bay

So after a very early start I met Olivia at the airport and we headed off on an 8am flight from Sydney to Ballina. I'm not usually bothered about flying but I was slightly apprehensive when I saw the plane as it was tiny!! It only carried about 30 passengers! But we arrived in one piece and it was all quite uneventful which was good, apart from the screaming child behind me!

Caught a shuttle to Byron Bay and got dropped off at our hostel - the Arts Factory. Byron Bay in general is a bit of a laid back hippy place, and this hostel in particular has that feel about it! We opted to stay in an island hut which was quite cool although pretty sparse for what we paid - an oversized dome tent type thing with two beds and nothing else!! And the showers, well a gnat probably could've pissed on me and it would've had more of an impact and it might have been warmer aswell!! But apart from that there was a swimming pool, cinema, bar, cafe, shop - everything a girl could want really!!! And it was a nice setting and quite unique really, so nice to stay somewhere a bit different.

Spent a couple of relaxing days here on the beach, just chilling out after the last few hectic months in Sydney!! Weather was pretty good most of the time, quite hot so the tan is coming back after the last few cold months in NZ and Sydney!! Decided to do a sunrise tour so we could be amongst the first people in Australia to see the sun rise at the eastern most point of Oz! So that was another early start of 4.45am to get to the Lighthouse in time to see the sun! It was a bit cloudy so didn't get the full effect but it was still nice to see - am always a sucker for a sunrise/sunset!

On Sunday we did a tour to Nimbin. This is supposed to be a bit like the Amsterdam of Australia. It's quite a small place but has a big reputation of the alternative lifestyle and anything goes. But clearly not everything though as our 'alternative' tour guide definitely had his own opinions about things such as the monarchy and religion (and these weren't positive opinions either surprisingly enough!) and wasn't actually open enough to consider the fact that people are entitled to their own opinions... So against the whole freedom of thought/speech etc etc thing then!!! But it was really interesting to hear about how this town came about and what has been going on there over the last 30/40 years. But when we rocked up it was completely different to what I had imagined and the picture that had been painted of this place. Instead of it being this really chilled out, relaxed place it was a bit sad really - lots of people that were really miserable and quite unhealthy looking, mostly off their faces and trying to sell tourists weed and cookies. I guess turning up en masse with loads of other tourists means you are never going to see the real life that goes on there, but I didn't get a great vibe from the place. But it was still an interesting day out.

On the way back we got randomly taken to some guys place (who wasn't there!) and we hung out in his house for an hour or so, with some people taking a dip in the pond (they called it a pool but I don't think I would go that far!)! Bit bizarre but it was nice and peaceful! And then we went home via what was possibly the most pathetic waterfall I have ever seen in my life! I know I have been spoilt by Iguazu in Argentina, but the aforementioned gnat's piss would've probably more impressive!!! I know there is a bit of a drought situation going on here but in that case why take us to a waterfall that doesn't really exist?!!! Quite a fitting end to a rather bizarre day I guess...!!

Brisbane

Caught the Greyhound bus to Brisbane the next morning - and changed time zone aswell which was a bit strange, especially when the bus driver didn't even bother to tell us! And Queensland doesn't have daylight savings either, so just as I was getting used to the longer evening they were snatched away from me!!

Spent the afternoon wandering round the city and went for a walk down by the river which was all quite nice! The next day when I woke up it was raining which I wasn't too impressed with, although it did stop and was just cloudy and overcast for most of the day but I can cope with that! Did a bit of a tourist thing around the place - saw the City Hall, some pretty looking church that was stuck quite randomly in the middle of the city in between some huge office buildings and went into Parliament House where I got a guided tour (and there was only two of us so I could quiz the woman about how the whole politics thing works over here) and got my photo taken in the Speaker's chair in the House of Commons equivalent which I thought was pretty cool (but then I am an accountant so my idea of cool is not the same as everyone else's!). Then crossed the river and walked around South Bank for a while. Brisbane is a nice enough place but it's just another city really so a day and a half was enough for me! So onwards and upwards to the next destination!!

Noosa

We are staying at Dolphins which is a really great hostel. It's separated into little units with two bedrooms, a bathroom, lounge and kitchen for 8 people so it's a good way to meet others and it's really chilled out which is nice. Only problem is that it keeps raining!!! I'm in the Sunshine State on the Sunshine Coast and it's bloody raining! Am NOT impressed!!! So I got a bit wet on my afternoon wander and had the very clever idea of walking for ages up a road to get to a viewpoint, only to get there and not be able to see that much as it was raining and all misty and cloudy!! Marvellous!

It rained on and off the next day, but still went out for a walk along the Coastal Path in the Noosa National Park with a Canadian woman I met from the hostel. It was a really nice walk and took us from Sunshine beach, where the hostel is, over to Alexandria beach (a nudie beach but fortunately there was no one there when we walked across it!), up to Hell's Gate, over to Tea Tree beach and then into Noosa Heads and the centre of the town. There's really lovely scenery round this part so it was great to get out and about in the National Park.

Whilst I was in the area I decided to go to the Australia Zoo, home of the late, great Steve Irwin! It was a bit weird though as even though he's not around anymore it doesn't feel like it as he's just everywhere! On the way to and from the zoo we watched videos of him on the bus, in the zoo he's up there on the big screen and his face is everywhere! They were also gearing up for Steve Irwin day which was the following week. The craziest thing I saw there was a kid's fitness video by Bindi (who also has her own fashion thing going on!) so she's clearly going to be the next big thing there...

The zoo is pretty impressive! Obviously there's lots of animals there but it's really interactive aswell - you can feed the elephants, watch a croc show, pet a baby crocodile thing, watch tigers and otters being fed (not at the same time though!), stroke a koala and feed the kangaroos! So plenty of stuff going on! It was a lovely hot day too so had a great time wandering around!

Fraser Island

From Noosa we caught a bus up to Hervey Bay where we stayed the night before our three day adventure on Fraser Island. Hervey Bay is just a jumping off point for FI and so everyone you meet is just about to go there or just got back so there were lots of stories to swap!

We had an earlyish start to catch the boat over the FI, where we were met by Ranger Bob who was to be our guide for the next 3 days. I have never met a person who is so passionate about his work and conservation and he had so many interesting stories to tell that we never tired of listening to them. There were 24 people on our tip, mostly Irish of course!, and we all got on pretty well! Apparently we were the best group ever according to Bob but I'm not sure we were that great!!!

Anyway, off we went in our big truck! There are no roads on the Island, it is all just tracks in the sand so you need a 4x4 and we didn't really fancy driving one and having to dig it out the sand etc etc, hence going on a tour! And sometimes it's just great to sit back and not have to worry about anything!! Our first stop was Basin Lake - it was a bit of a walk up to get there but def worth it as the lake was amazing - really clear, and lovely and warm so we all jumped in! Then after lazing round for a while by the lake we walked down the Central Station where Bob had got lunch sorted for us which was fab, although there were loads of bloody huge March flies everywhere that bite which was quite annoying!

From there we went on a little bushwalk which was nice, and then back to the bus where we went for a drive and ended up at Lake McKenzie - another stunning lake. There was also a bit of excitement when a dingo came down to the beach, but it looked so skinny and sad that I don't think it had the energy to attack anyone. You aren't allowed to feed the dingoes anymore and so they are struggling to survive and it's quite sad to see them in the state they are in now. We spent a while at the lake but the water was really cold and then it started to rain a bit so we all made a run for it back up to the truck and Bob was there with tea, coffee and cookies which was great!

Then we headed back to the Kingfisher Resort and found our lodges. Olivia and I were in a room with two Irish girls - Maeve and Emer, who were lovely and a lot of the others were in our lodge too, so after a bit of a fight over showers we all had a few drinks before heading over for dinner. The food at this place is sooo good, and there's loads of it too, forcing you to be a bit of a pig and eat far more than you actually need to just because it's there!! Then after dinner we all sat around having a few drinks, played a pool competition (where I didn't completely embarrass myself so years of people trying to teach me how to play is finally paying off!) and then passed out at some ridiculously early hour as we were so knackered!!!

The next day we were at for breakfast at 7am and then off we went! First stop was the Stonetool Sandblow lookout and then we headed to 75 mile beach (which apparently is only 68 miles!!). The tide was in and it came right up the beach so there was very little beach to drive on, but Bob is a little bit crazy and very experienced fortunately so he drove us up the beach anyway which was great fun! We stopped for a turtle that we saw on the beach that we thought was dead at first until it moved it's head, so we put it back in the water and off it swam, so that was pretty cool to see. Then we carried on up the beach until we got to a ship wreck that had been stuck in the sand for years and it was all rusting away but was still pretty impressive. From there we carried on driving up the beach until we got to Indian Head, where we walked up to the top for an amazing lookout over the sea and parts of the island.

From there we headed onto Champagne Pools, which again was really lovely clear water, but really cold and it was quite windy so decided not to go in!! And then we drove back to the Resort, via Pinnacle Rocks which were some stripey, sandy rock things, and Ely Creek which was a nice little creek!!! Driving back down the beach with the tide out was so much easier that I realised how hard it must've been driving down it this morning!!

In the evening, after another lovely dinner we had a night of singing with Bob playing the guitar!! I love nights like this as everyone gets together and we all just had loads of fun, trying to remember all the words to random songs! Until the Irish took over though with all their bloody songs and I got a bit bored as couldn't join in!!

The next day we had a lie in until 7am and then off we went! First stop was Lake Wabby and this was probably the most impressive lake I have seen on this island. It was a lovely shade of green and it was set amongst the sand dunes so it was really impressive to see from the lookout and then we walked down to it and had a swim! Managed to swim to the other side and back, which was slightly further than we thought, but good exercise after all the cookies we had eaten!! Then after chilling out by the lake for an hour or so, we walked over the sand dunes to the beach.

We had lunch in one of the other resort, which again was fab, and then we went off to Lake Birabeen and chilled out there for a while, with a post lunch doze!! It tried to rain a couple of times but for the majority of the time we had been really lucky with the weather. Then we drove to an ancient Aboriginal area of the beach for a walk around and then after our last stop for tea and cookies we had come to the end of our trip and it was time to catch the ferry back to the main land. It was quite sad to say goodbye to everyone as we had all gotten on so well over the last three days. But that's travelling for you with everyone going their different ways, although you always end up bumping into people in the most random of places! Whilst Olivia and I were waiting for our overnight bus up to Mackay we bumped into the two girls that I lived with in Sydney!! It's a small world sometimes!! And then after that we hopped on our bus for 11 hours to Mackay!

Mackay

My top travel tip would be to never come to this place!! There is nothing here! Olivia slept for most of the day after the lack of sleep on the night bus so I went for a wander for a couple of hours and still found nothing of any interest! And then when we tried to go out for something to eat in the evening everywhere was shut! So we decided to get the hell out of there and hopped on an earlier bus up to Airlie Beach!

Airlie Beach/Whitsundays

So you would think that hostels over here should be of a reasonably high standard, especially down the East Coast which is such a well trodden route... Well not so it seems! As we did a package thing for Fraser Island and the Whitsundays we got a few nights accommodation included along the way and we weren't given an option of where we could stay... So we ended up in Koalas in Airlie Beach, which everyone had warned us against as it's not supposed to be very nice. A room stinking of piss classes as not very nice to me so I guess everyone was right!! And no one told us you were supposed to pay a dollar for sheets so we had nothing to sleep on either!! And fortunately (or unfortunately depending on your point of view!) we missed the wet t-shirt competition which was the evening before we arrived!! So you can imagine what sort of classy establishment it is!!! But it was only for one night, and even though the party was in our room when we wanted to go to bed everyone was quite nice and left pretty quickly and I managed to sleep through whatever racket was going on outside!!!

We spent the afternoon catching up with Ash, our mate from Sydney and her friend Orla who was out here on holiday, and it was great to see a familiar face and have a good old catch up over a few beers, rather than yet another forced conversation of where are you from, where have you been etc etc...! These two crazy Irish girls partied the night away until about 4am, but I just can't hack it anymore and only managed to stay out until about 10pm!! Ha ha!

We had a bit of a lazy morning and then got to the boat at lunchtime. There's 12 people on our boat plus Dave the skipper and Zack, who had the most gorgeous blue eyes I have ever seen in my life (and was pretty cute!), and was also a damn good cook too so the whole package really!!! There were two Dutch couples who were quite a bit older and then 8 girls! Two of them were English and after hanging around with so many Irish people for so long it was great to chat to some English people again!! Everyone was really lovely and we all got on really well which was great!

Once we all got settled on the boat off we went. It was at this point that I realised I wasn't actually overly keen on boats, but there wasn't much I could do about that for the next couple of days!!! Also as there was only 2 crew on the boat we had to help out a bit, so I figured I might aswell throw myself into it all and get involved, pulling ropes and stuff!! We also had to tack quite a few times, which basically means move to the other side of the boat so they can swing the boom around and go in a different direction. Sounds simple enough but when the boat is at such a sharp angle it's quite hard to manoeuvre anywhere and we all looked very unglamorous as we scuttled from one side to the other, trying not to fall in!

Then it started to rain which was nice! So there we all were, sitting in our lovely yellow rain macs thinking this wasn't exactly what we had signed up for when we thought of sailing in the Whitsundays!! Also we all had visions of lying on the deck sun baking but as it was quite a small boat there wasn't much chance of that happening! And anyway, sailing boats (as I found out!) sail along at almost a 45 degree angle so if we lay down chances are we would've rolled off!!

The weather cleared up fortunately so we spent the afternoon cruising around until we got near Hook Island where we dropped the anchor and decided to settle for the night! Then I had another thought - it was only about 5pm so what were we going to do for the night? Answer - eat, drink and chat!! So we had a fab dinner, some cheap but not too nasty wine and a bit of a laugh!

The sleeping arrangements were interesting... There were two cabins which the two couples took, three people went into the third cabin and the rest of us were in the main area. Sarah had to sleep in a bit of a cubby hole with her legs in a cupboard, Olivia and I were on some seats, and 2 others were above me and Olivia in a bunk type thing. So it was all fine, apart from the fact my seats were by the table so basically I had my arse wedged under the table for the night, which wasn't the most comfortable but for a couple of nights it was fine!! It took some getting used to, as did the rocking and noise of the water but we managed to survive!

The next morning we were all up at about 6.30 and after some breakfast off we went! We sailed over to Tongue Bay and Whitehaven Beach. We went onto the beach and walked up to a lookout where you could see Hill Inlet which was amazing - all the different colours of the water and the white sand, it was fab. Then we went down onto the beach for a while and some put on their sexy stinger suits and went for a swim!

After lunch we moved onto another spot - Dumbell Island - so we could go snorkelling. I haven't been for years and was a bit nervous as can never get over the whole idea of putting my face into the water yet still breathing, but it all came back to me pretty quickly! It was fantastic. The water was so clear so you could see the coral really well and the colours were amazing. And the fishes swam so close it felt like you could touch them! I took an underwater camera in with me and so probably have 27 pictures of blue water and not much else but fingers crossed some of them come out OK!! Since being on this boat I have realised that you can't really be that self conscious! First of all we all have to wear these skin tight lycra stinger suits which doesn't really leave much to the imagination, and then when you want to get back into the boat after being in the water you have to sort of pull yourself up a bit and then someone grabs you and pulls you in. I kept ending up head first in the motor boat with my arse in the air - such a good look! We were actually quite glad there were no boys on the boat so it didn't really matter what we looked like!!

The weather for the day had been OK - no rain but some cloud. In the afternoon the sun came out though and it was sooo hot! So after the snorkelling we did a bit of sun baking whilst the motor was on and no sails were up so we didn't roll off the boat! Then we went for a bit of a sail until we got to our evening destination - no idea where though as everywhere just looks the same to me!! Then spent another evening eating great food, drinking some more wine and had a bit of a dance on deck to some cheesy music! What a way to spend a Saturday night!

Another early start and we went snorkelling first thing too at Cave Cove! It wasn't so sunny but it was our last chance so figured we had to make the most of it! Had a great time swimming around and saw some different fish which was good! Then we had to make our way back to Airlie Beach. I even took a turn at driving the boat which was interesting! It was harder than I thought it would be as you really have to concentrate on where you want to go, and I kept getting a bit scared when then boat goes up on one side as I keep thinking I'm going to tip it over, and regardless of how many times someone reassures me this is how it is supposed to be I still can't quite believe them!!! Clearly I'm no sailor!! It was fantastic weather as we cruised back though, really hot. Am actually glad it wasn't sunny the whole time or we all would've been an attractive shade of red!!

And then we got back to Airlie Beach and it was time to say goodbye to everyone. Some people were meeting up that evening for dinner and drinks but a lot of us were heading off in various directions. So after a bit of luch we all said our goodbyes and Olivia and I hopped on yet another Greyhound bus to Townsville.

Townsville/Magnetic Island

We found a really nice little place to stay in Townsville, and it had a free washing machine which was a bonus as all our clothes were stinking after being on the boat! They had no dryer though so we had to hang it out on the washing line - this was such a normal thing to do that it felt really strange!!

Caught the ferry over to Magnetic Island and spent the day there. Got a bus down to Picnic Bay and walked up to Hawkings Point where we had excellent views over the island and across to Townsville. And then we got the bus all the way over to Horseshoe Bay and chilled out there for a while and went for a walk along the beach! It was quite a hot day so couldn't really do too much! The island is over-run at the moment with lots of teenagers - something to do with Schoolies week, whatever that is, so we were quite glad that we had only come over for the day and weren't staying any longer! It is a nice place though, quite quiet and chilled out which was good!

Cairns/Cape Tribulation

Our last Greyhound bus and a 6hr journey to Cairns! Had a couple of movies to watch though so it wasn't too painful! The hostel we're staying at is a bit out of town but was one of those palces that had everything there, including an all you can eat buffet so we were happy!

We're now in North Queensland - where the rainforest meets the reef! We decided to head a bit further north up to Cape Tribulation, which is supposed to be quite remote but a really nice area so thought we'd check it out!

The next day we set off for Cape Tribulation. We were met at our hostel by our guide Brad. I have never seen such an enthusiastic person in my life! And he managed to keep up the enthusiasm and big smiles for the whole time we were with him which I thought was quite impressive! We drove off up the Cook Highway, along by the water which was a really lovely drive, until we got to the Daintree River and went for a bit of a cruise! The guide on the boat had amazing eyesight as he spotted this tiny snake that was hanging around in a tree, and then he saw a crocodile on the bank of the river, sunbaking! He got the boat pretty close to it, closer than I would've liked!, but it didn't seem bothered by us! It was behind some bushes though so the photos don't really do it justice!

After the river cruise we headed off again and then went for a bushwalk in the rainforest which was pretty cool! As we drove off we went round a corner and nearly ran over 2 cassawories that were strolling across the road! It was amazing to see them as apparently it's quite rare to spot them so we all sat in the bus and watched them go about their business (they can kill you so we decided not to get out!)! Then we carried on until we got up to Cape Trib and got dropped off at our accommodation for the afternoon. We were staying in a beach house which was fab! It was right by the beach, and it had a swimming pool and restaurant so we were all sorted! We went for a walk along the beach to the Cape Trib lookout point, and then we cooled off in the pool! In the evening we met some other girls staying there so had dinner with them which was nice!

The next morning we had arranged to go horse riding. Ever since Grainne and I had to cancel our horse riding on the beach in NZ I've wanted to do it! There were three other girls who were going aswell, plus the guide. She assigned us our horses - I got Zeus! Whilst I was waiting to get on him I heard her say 'come here big boy'! There are a few occassions when I don't want to hear those words and one of them is when it's describing a horse that I'm about to get on!! So yeah, he was a pretty big horse!! But very ungracefully I managed to get on him!! Once we were all sorted off we went. We just walked first of all, through the forest and down to the beach. When I thought of horse riding on the beach I had images of me on a horse galloping along the sand with the waves lapping at the horses feet and the wind in my hair. The reality was that we just walked for a while along the beach, stopped for photos and then walked back!! I felt slightly cheated!! But after that we did do a bit of a trot and then a canter which was good fun, and went all through the rainforest and down to a creek, where we could swim but it was a tad cold! We stopped for some refreshments and gave my knees a bit of a rest as they were killing me (this is when I start to feel old!) and then rode them back to the stables. Despite his size Zeus was actually a great horse and was really obedient - I didn't need to tell him to do anything as he just followed whatever was going on in front so nice and easy!

In the afternoon we got taken back to Cairns. We had a few stops along the way - at an ice cream place where they had all sorts of wierd and wonderful flavours, at a lookout of the Alexandria range and we could see Low Island which is where Steve Irwin was killed by the stingray (how marvellous that this is now pointed out as a tourist attraction), then onto Mossman Gorge and had a stroll around Port Douglas, which was a really lovely little place. It was a shame we weren't staying there as one of the pubs had cane toad racing on which I thought sounded like fun! And then it was back to Cairns and we spent the evening with some new friends at the all you can eat buffet, with a few beers and a pub quiz!

Alice Springs and Uluru

So, here I am back on my own again! I left Olivia in Cairns as she is flying back to Sydney and I hopped on a plane to Alice Springs. It's so bloody hot here, as soon as you step out the door you break into a sweat! The town itself is a little bit strange, but I guess that's to be expected seeing as we are in the middle of nowhere! I'm glad I'm not here very long though as I don't really get that good a feeling about the place.

Got picked up the next morning at 5.45am (I was later to find out that this was a lie in compared to what lay ahead!) along with 20 odd other people. It was a long drive to Uluru (maybe about 450kms!) so we all dozed for a while and then our tour guide Dermot decided to make us play a quiz, with the losers making lunch for everyone! It was girls against boys and as I was the only native English speaker amongst the girls I had a nasty feeling we weren't going to do very well...and I was right! Fortunately lunch was quite easy to make!!

After lunch we went to Kata Tjuta and did an 8km walk round these rocks in the heat of the day which was a fantastic idea! Our thermometer told us it was about 56 degrees in the sun which is a bit bloody hot really! But it was a good walk and the views were pretty stunning so even though we were all dying of dehydration by the end of it I'd still say it was worth it!

Then we went back to the campground and walked up to a little viewing point so we could see sunset over Ayres Rock. We got to sip some champagne whilst watching the sun do it's thang and there was also a full moon so there were some amazing colours in the sky and it was all looking pretty good! It wasn't quite as picture perfect as you see on the postcards, and from where we were the sun didn't actually set over Ayres Rock, it set over the Kata Tjuta rocks but the sky was still a nice colour!!

We went back to the campsite for dinner and then as we had another early start most people disappeared off to bed pretty quickly, leaving me and some of the boys sitting around a non existent camp fire wondering what to do with ourselves, and then realising that we actually had no options except a shower and bed!! How exciting!

The next morning we were all up and on the bus ready to leave at 5.10! Were a bit bleary eyed but were hopeful that what we were about to see would make it all worth it...! We got to the viewing area and along with hundreds of other tourists we got to watch the sun rise and saw the changing colour of Ayres Rock, from red to...a different shade of red! It was quite impressive though so definately good to see and worth getting up for!

Had breakfast at the side of the road and then headed off for a bit of a walk. There was the option to climb Ayres Rock, although the Aborigines don't like to you as it's sacred. So I wasn't planning on doing it anyway, but first it was too windy and then too hot, so people had to make do with a 10km walk round the base of it. It was a nice easy walk and there were a few things to look along the way. But at the end of the day, it is just a big rock! I didn't get the WOW factor that I was expecting, but it seemed no one else did either so am glad it's not just me! Am definately glad I came here as it's one of those things you have to do, but I guess it wasn't quite what I was expecting! But I don't know why - it does what it says on the tin - it's a rock and it's a sort of red colour depending on the light!!

Anyway, once everyone had walked around we went to a cultural centre to understand a bit about the Aboriginal culture in the area which was quite interesting. There was a folder of letters from people who had taken a bit of rock with them and then had experienced loads of bad luck and so were sending the rock back in an envelope, asking for it to be put back! They do say it is bad luck to take away a piece of the rock, and it seemed some people suffered more than others... But I'm not sure if kidney failure, cheating husbands or other random accidents can really be blamed on a piece of rock but I guess some people need something to believe in...

Then from there we had a long drive to Kings Canyon. I think it took about 4 hours and after all the excitement of the morning most people just dozed off! When we got there we found a little resort so had a swim and chilled out by the pool, and then went for a cold beer in the pub which was lovely! And then in the evening, after watching yet another sunset and seeing yet more rocks change colour, (this time over Kings Canyon though!) we had a campfire! Some of the boys got overly excited about this and went off on missions to find the biggest bits of wood they could. The benches nearly got thrown on at one point but I think the guide might've noticed and not been too impressed...!! Once the fire was raging we cooked our food, which I was abit dubious about but it was actually fantastic! Then to liven things up Dermont made us play possibly the most rubbish games I have ever seen in my life! It was quite hard to explain the games too when half the people didn't speak great English and the rest of us were sitting there just wondering what the hell we were doing! Three games later though he gave up and left us alone!

We decided to do the proper Aussie thing whilst we were in the Outback and sleep in a swag for the night! Basically a swag is like a sleeping bag but has a little mattress in it. We were warned to zip it all up and don't leave anything out (including flip flops!) as dingoes come right up to the camp and will take anything! So it was pretty cool, sleeping in our swags by the fire under the stars and the full moon... This isn't such a bad life you know...!

The next morning we were up and walking up heart attack hill at 6am!! It gets so hot in the canyon that we figured it was best to start early... Apart from the first hill the walk was quite easy going and the scenery was stunning. We walked around the rim and you could see right into the canyon. We also saw a kangaroo hopping around up there too which was pretty cool!

When we got down, Dermot had found out that some road had been opened which was going to take a few hundred kilometres off our journey which meant time for a swim! This was great news after the long walk so we headed back to the pool for a couple of hours! And then off we went back to Alice Springs. What we didn't realise about the road was how bad it was going to be to drive on! He told us it was unsealed so we were expecting it to be a little bit bumpy, but not quite on the scale that it actually was! Oh well, we only had to put up with it for about 200kms and somehow I managed to sleep quite a bit!! Afterwards we found out that you are only allowed to go on that road if you have some sort of radio in case you break down and apparently we didn't. Nevermind, we lived to tell the tale!

We stopped off in an Aboriginal village for a break and as apparently people are always intrigued as to how they live. But I felt a little uncomfortable there as people were just hanging around and I don't think they really appreciate people coming along and staring. We also found a kangaroo's tail in the supermarket freezer which I thought was interesting! Didn't really fancy the idea of eating it though as it's mainly just fat! Nice!



And then a few hundred kms later we were back in Alice Springs! A shower was the first priority to get rid of all the red dust I had accumulated over the last few days, and then we all met up in the

evening for dinner and a few (well quite a lot actually!) drinks...!


Melbourne

So after a few hours sleep and with a raging hangover I had to leave behind all my new buddies and get on the plane to Melbourne! Then for some bizarre reason I got my washing powder confiscated so spent ages at check-in with everyone staring at me whilst I rummaged around in my bag for some white powder, and then had to force everything else back in again! Just what I needed!

The flight was only a couple of hours and pretty uneventful so I just slept! Then I had the job of getting to my hostel. I thought this would be pretty easy, which for the most past it was. So I was sitting on a bus and they drove me to St Kilda and then dropped me off on a random road. Usually it is not hard to spot a hostel but this one had a twist - despite it being called St Kilda Beach House, the name of the place on the outside was actually Hotel Barkly! Don't ask me why as I've no idea and in my not quite with it state it took ages for me to actually realise! I must've looked like a right idiot wandering up and down this road with a huge rucksack on my back in the hot sun when the bloody place was right in front of me the whole time!!!

And as nice as this hostel is, it wasn't the most social! For the first few days I only saw my 7 other room-mates when I went to bed and they were already alseep, or when I got up in the morning and they were asleep! Eventually though we saw each other when we were all awake and finally I had some people to talk to!! I spent some of my time wandering around the city, trying to get a feel for the place and deciding if I want to actually live here for a few months! The city is growing on me quite quickly, even though wasn't in a real touristy mood so didn't see that much! I've got a few friends here who I've met on my previous travels so it was great to catch up with them after such a long time!



I did a day trip on the Great Ocean Road which was really good. At first it felt a bit rushed and there were all these great viewpoints that we kept driving past, but then I guess really it was all the same thing - a huge long road and some beach!! But then we did stop a few times along the way and all hopped to to get a full appreciation of the great scenery! At times it did remind me of the English countryside which was nice to see, and in the morning it was a bit cloudy which definately reminded me of home!! We eventually got to the 12 Apostles which was the highlight of the trip and what everyone comes to see. Basically there are 12 big rocks in the water, but you can't really see them all from the viewing platforms so some of us got a helicopter ride around the area which was fantastic! We had really good views of all the rocks, the road, the beaches etc etc so it was brilliant!

After this we went to Loch Ard Gorge and some razorback rock and then down to London Bridge. Basically these were some other areas that had lots more rocks for show and tell!! They were pretty impressive though! After all this excitement it was then time to drive back to Melbourne. We went back via the highway, which is not so stunning but definately quicker!! It was a long day but def worth doing as the scenery was amazing.

My uncle, aunt and three cousins live in Melbourne so I went and stayed with them for a few days. I haven't seen them for fourteen years so wasn't really sure how it was all going to go but it was great to see them and they made me feel so welcome. It was so nice to be part of a family again after such a long time, be in a normal house and actually sleep in a room without seven other people!!! I had a great time there for a few days just relaxing, watching movies and catching up with them all so it was really good! It got to the point that I didn't really want to leave, but the fact I am planning on coming back to Melbourne in about a month or so made it a bit easier to go!

Singapore

I didn't arrive in Singapore until about 10pm and even though there's only a 3 hour time difference with Melbourne I was struggling a bit and wasn't quite with it. I got the train to somewhere near my hostel and then had to walk for a bit. But I ended up down the wrong street wandering around for a while but eventually found the place! The reception was shut but I had a little note waiting for me with a map and some keys, and so I found my way upstairs and then eventually after wandering around for a while looking a bit lost someone pointed me in the direction of my room where my name was plastered on my bed so it all made me feel quite welcome!! I really like this place - standards have dropped slightly from Australia but that's OK, I'm happy with low standards anyway! The upstairs is like one huge bedroom, with loads of people sleeping in bunks with these big curtain things hanging down to try and give people a bit of privacy! Then there are a few dorm rooms aswell - I'm not sure how I managed to end up in one of them but am not complaining! It's so humid here though, that after sweating a few litres making my way from the airport I stood under a cold shower for a few minutes and then fell into bed!!

I spent my first day wandering around the Arab Quarter and Little India. It wasn't quite what I expected Singapore to be like - I felt more like I was in some other Asian country. But it was really interesting to walk around these areas - I felt like I had been transported back to India with all the material shops, shops full of cheap tat that no one would ever need yet still buy!, restaurants with rotis, chapatis and decent curries, smell of incense etc. As well as the odd stare and dirty old men whispering things in my ear as they walked past!!! Nice!

I braved a restaurant for lunch which was an interesting experience - I didn't understand what he was saying, he didn't understand what I was saying, so we pointed to some pictures, exchanged a few words and then I sat down and waited...! It turned out to not be so bad - I got a bowl of watery wanton soup thrown in, the noodles tasted good and I didn't feel like I was going to be ill whilst I was eating it so everyone's a winner!! It only cost me $2.50, and it didn't make a swift exit out of either end too so it's all good!!

In the afternoon I went up to Orchard Road, which is apparently famous for all the shopping (although I had never heard of it before I got here!). Singapore is well known for it's food and shopping and I have to say the shops are pretty impressive! There are sooo many shopping malls and there are hundreds of shops in each one. I found a Marks & Spencer, Topshop and Dorothy Perkins which I found to be quite strange and in one of the huge department stores I found proper English Cadbury's chocolate which was very exciting! If only I wasn't going home in a couple of days I could've stocked up! This is definately the country to go to before going back to the UK (for good!) as things are pretty cheap and the choice is amazing! But seeing as I have a shortage of funds and a small ish rucksack I had to make do with just window shopping!!!
I met Lisa, a Scottish girl, in my room so we went out for some dinner in the evening. We were both pretty knackered so it was quite handy that there was a restaurant a couple of doors down from the hostel! More good food and at $4 a plate we weren't complaining! It's wierd how some things are really cheap, and other things are quite expensive. If you wanted to you could spend $15 upwards on dinner but clearly I am never going to do that! I guess the more expensive things cater to the tourists but you can get buy on a few dollars a day if you wanted to...

The next day I met an Aussie at breakfast and so we hung out for the day! We went to Raffles Hotel where everyone says you have to go for a cocktail but we got chucked out the lobby for being inappropriately dressed!! So we were a bit annoyed after that! I did have the world's most expensive ice cream ($8! that's more than I spent on lunch and dinner put together!) and Aiden had the world's most expensive orange juice (at a massive $12!!)! They put far too much effort into the ice cream - first I got to try flavours and she recommended different ones, and then when I picked two she scooped them onto a marble slab and started mixing and mashing them in together, which is not really what I wanted as I like to eat them separately!! Anyway, I didn't have a choice, and so in the end I got a cup of brown goo that really didn't look that appetising! She took such care over it though I guess she must've trained for years to become such an accomplished ice cream putter togetherer and so I didn't really like to say anything...!!!

After that we went for a little cruise along the Singapore River in a bumboat! Not as classy as it sounds, especially when the water is a lovely green/grey colour! But it was good and a nice way to see the CBD. Then wandered around the CBD for a while before hopping on the MRT to Chinatown for some food. There was supposed to be a huge Chinatown Food Complex which is supposed to be quite an experience, but in true Heidi style I couldn't find it anywhere!! So we opted for a place in the street instead, and the food was great! Walked round Chinatown for a bit before going all the way back to a museum in the CBD (as I felt like a bit of culture!) in the pouring rain, only to find it was really expensive to get in when I had run out of dollars and wasn't planning on paying $10 for a museum anyway! So we got soaked for nothing then! Oh well!

After chilling out back at the hostel for a while Lisa and I ventured slightly further for dinner - we actually crossed the street this time, and got $4 plates of food from someone else! There were no menus in this place and we didn't understand whatever was written on the board, so I just opted for noodles with chicken and requested the not spicy version and was pretty impressed with what I got! After we got our meals they asked if we wanted an egg! I thought this was a bit random and so declined but Lisa went for it and literally just got a fried egg on a little plate which was a nice touch!

The next day was my last... Can't believe I have been away for nearly a year and am about to fly back to the cold and rain in the UK! Anyway, I spent my last day wandering around Singapore - went back to Chinatown to explore a bit more and then headed over to Sentosa, this island which I had overheard someone saying was a great place to visit and you should go now as it's all being re-developed and will change. Well it's actually being re-developed as we speak so a huge chunk of it was a building site which was nice! I had also read in the Lonely Planet that you have to take a cable car one way as there are such magnificent views... Well the cable car was ridiculously expensive and only $1 more for a return so figured I'd push the boat out... It was so not worth it as you couldn't really see that much except for the aforementioned building site!!
The island was really wierd, there were quite a few attractions there but none that really interested me, so I went for a walk along the beach and found the southern most point of the Asia Continent so that was worth a few photos! But apart from that there wasn't much else! I rode on the buses around the island to make sure I wasn't missing anything (and I wasn't!!) and then headed back to the mainland and a bit of last minute shopping to spend my final few dollars!! I had my last plate of $4 noodles with Lisa and a couple of other people we had met at the hostel and then I headed off to the airport for my last leg of my Round the World ticket back to London...